Corfu Greece | tourist holiday travel guide to Kerkyra

Corfu Town (Kerkyra)

If you can afford it, and if you can bear the crowds, KERKYRA or CORFU TOWN is as pleasant a major holiday centre as you will find anywhere in Greece.

Venetians, French and British have all had a hand in developing the town and the results are both impressive and attractive, especially since 1994 when public buildings were given a major clean-up in preparation for a EU summit.

This is a large town with 40,000 inhabitants (and who knows how many at the height of summer) but it is an expensive one, particularly in the main tourist areas.

The town is dominated by double forts. The 13th century Neo Frourio (New Fort) with its dungeons, cellars and impressive turret battlements is much more interesting to visit than the older but less exciting 6th century Paleo Frourio (Old Fort).

The focus of the town is the Spianada, a public square and park - one of the biggest in Europe - where evening crowds stroll as children play.

It is rather spoiled since parts were turned into a car park and there is a bizarre cricket field where matches are still played. You can even find a McDonalds if you would rather not be in Greece at all.

North of the square is the French designed and arcaded Liston, built to resemble the rue de Rivoli in Paris and packed with elegant cafes and restaurants.

It's a pleasant place for a stroll but it will cost you a packet to eat in this tourist honeypot and the food is generally bland and unmemorable and the service brusque.

Nearby is Georgian Palace of St Michael and St George which houses the wonderful Museum of Asiatic Art, one of the largest and best collections in the world. In fact Corfu is noted for its many weird collections. The Ionian Bank houses a Museum of Banknotes and there is even a Serbian War Museum (the Balkan Wars of 1915-17, not the recent one).

The Byzantium Museum is housed in a restored 15th century church and there is a Solomos Museum, dedicated to the island's poet. Also of note is St. Spiridon's Church, home to the island's patron - a 'mummified' saint - located just behind the Liston. The church is impressive and well worth a visit.

To the north of the city is the coastal beach suburb of ALYKES which has a sandy beach and shallow water. A regular bus service runs into town and there are a few tavernas and shops nearby.

Corfu visitor reviews

Kontokali

The highway north out of Corfu town isn't the best introduction to the island. A dreary motorway through a commercial wasteland ends at island's main marina and ferry stop at Gouvia.

Just before then and merged into is the resort of KONTOKALI. Despite its noisy neighbour it manages some charm, with subdued nightlife and good tavernas and bars. But each year the two grow closer as more apartments go up and it only a matter of time before Kontokali is completely swamped.

There are two beaches, both of sand and pebble, if you can see either for the sun beds. One beach is in front of the massive Kontokali Beach Hotel and looks like a private beach, but it's not.

There are showers here and you can even rent beach towels. It's shallow in the water, particularly between the two groins, and the watersports areas are cordoned off to prevent accidents.

The other beach to the north is smaller and tends to get greater use from the locals. In the village there are scores of shops and restaurants, the remains of a castle and, north along the coast, an ancient Venetian shipyard.

Big supermarkets are found on the main road with the Diellias hypermarket at the Gouvia turnoff if you want to stock up on cheaper provisions.

Gouvia

Massively overdeveloped, GOUVIA overlooks a large marina usually crammed with boats. There is a good selection of bars and restaurants with a very lively atmosphere at night but not a great deal to do in the day.

Gouvia is on the main green bus route for all the resorts on the northern part of the island. A timetable is posted near the Pippilas Restaurant and buses generally run on time, are clean, air conditioned, and the staff are very helpful.

There is an Ionian theme park at the nearby Danila Village - the well-meaning if slightly crackpot, 'Corfu Experience' features a reproduction Greek village. All of this is slickly delivered in a Disney style without the slightest hint of irony.

There is also the Corfu Shell Museum, rather precariously placed on the busy dual carriageway. The Louis Kerkyra Hotel has a water park complex open to the paying public.

The beach is a rather bedraggled strip of pebbles and stone with sun beds and watersports. The drop into the sea is sharp, the beach gathers rubbish in high season and there are several outlet pipes into the sea, so it may not be the cleanest beach in Greece.

Cape Komeno

Curving around the bay from Gouvia is CAPE KOMENO which looks interesting but isn't. Swamped and dominated by an enormous Grecotel hotel and bungalow complex it has little to offer but scrubland and rocks unless you are a sucker for luxury hotel life.

To the right are views over the town of Corfu and the yachting marina in Gouvia, whilst on the left is the gulf of Dassia.

The hotel is surrounded on three sides by the sea with many small creeks and bays, mostly shingle and rock, some of them with changing cabins and showers.

Dassia

The resort of DASSIA, also known as DASIA,or DAHSIA is little more than a cluster of bars, restaurants and shops on either side of a very busy main road.

Hotels line the beachside of the road and apartments are on the other side. Traffic rarely thins and it can be a nightmare to cross.

A network of footpaths lead down to the beach - a long narrow strip of sharp shingle and a little sand, about 200m long and 30m deep. Shallow waters are backed by dramatic pine and olive covered cliffs.

There is a long cement path that runs at the back of the beach and sun beds are relatively cheap though there are no showers or toilets. Doughnut sellers parade up and down for the peckish.

At the southern end of the beach is a small, pleasant bay with a ruined Venetian boatyard, but it's a bit of a scramble to get there.

The resort proper has a wide choice of restaurants and bars, though most offer uninspired tourist fare and chips with everything. Shops carry little else than tourist tat but the locals are known for their friendliness.

There is relatively little in the way of nightlife, so many visitors hop to nearby Ipsos for a night out clubbing - about 15 minutes on foot and fabulous views along the way.

Ipsos

Tacky IPSOS or YPSOS is the lager lumphead's paradise. The hideous resort boasts a couple of kilometres of wall-to-wall burger outlets and music bars.

It's a resort where you are touted smutty slogan T-shirts and blow-up plastic turtles. A firm favourite with British package tour operators Ipsos also attracts a growing number of east Europeans.

The beach is nothing but a narrow, long and uninviting straight strip of shingle and sand backed by a very busy main road. The road is a nightmare to cross but families must run the gauntlet to reach the tavernas and cafes on the other side.

The best bit of beach is near the harbour to the south; it's quieter though not much. Another small harbour to the north divided the beach and there are landing jetties every 50 yards or so.

The watersports you would expect are all available here - bananas, parasailing etc - with several jetties built along the shore to accommodate them. There are also showers, toilets and lighting along the main road.

But there's a rip-off air about the resort with many tourists complaining about having to buy their own loo paper. Visitors say the place was a ghost town in 2005 as many gave it a wide berth and who is to ask why?

The downmarket atmosphere pervades, but this is not Ibiza or Faliraki - clubs are relatively tame and they generally close around 4am. Quiet in the daytime, the main street livens up around midnight.

Touts are a nuisance, pulling passers by into the clubs, often literally. The children selling glo-sticks and Ispos branded headgear annoy even more. Stray cats and mangy dogs add to the general seediness.

Tavernas sell basic, low-priced meals - a meat course on a pile of chips - and bars boast giant TVs, all-day English breakfasts, karaoke, pool tables, video arcades and gaming machines.

Select this place ain't and, if you want more than a tan and a hangover you'll probably be sadly disappointed. But if it's cheap, cheerful and noisy you're after then it could be just the ticket.

The neighbouring resort at PYRGI is little more than an extension of Ipsos itself; a little less hectic, a bit cheaper maybe and with the occasional Greek meal to be found in the tavernas.

What a difference in the hills above where the lovely village of AGIOS MARKOS is a step back in time

Barbati

Following the north west coast out of Kerkyra you must wait until BARBATI for the beaches to improve. This long, narrow kilometre of sand, shingle and pebble (mostly pebble) is away from the main road and set in a fine bay cloaked in pines.

There are sun beds for hire and showers and toilets at the back of the beach as well as small tavernas and beach bars.

The east facing bay is very sheltered and the water is shallow for children though it does drop off steeply a little way out.

Rocky shores at both ends of the beach provide interest. The remains of an ancient church are worth a look, though it is usually locked.

The beach would be much quieter if it didn't suffer daily visits by boatloads from Kerkyra and Ipsos. The southern end also offers the usual water sports.

The back of the beach is covered with three vast complexes of apartments arranged in serried ranks and the network of roads to feed them provide plenty of parking.

The resort village is 10min from the beach up very steep lanes to the main road where there are stunning views over the bay and plenty of shops and restaurants. There are the usual tavernas and bars, mostly geared for families.

Nightlife is low key but Corfu town is only 30min away on the bus for those that prefer it more lively.

Nissaki

The shingle and stone beach at NISSAKI or NISAKI is very pretty, sitting in a horseshoe bay with a taverna at one end.

It was three beautiful pebble beaches necklaced together, with an offshore islet that became 'joined' to the mainland as rock was quarried away from it (Nissaki means little island).

It shouldn't be confused with the beaches at nearby KROUZARI, which is much bigger and dominated by the massive and inaptly named Nissaki Beach Hotel. There is also a Club Med complex there.

The real Nisaki beach, away from the hotels, is quiet and has good snorkeling. As it is so small it can sometimes get busy, especially when the day trip boats arrive.

There are no toilets on the beach but you can use the taverna if you buy a drink. There are lots of deserted rocky coves to explore nearby, if you follow the coastal path.

Krouzari is pretty much dominated by the large hotel and is a long strip of steep sloping shingle. There are showers, changing rooms and toilets as well a boardwalk that runs over the stones for the length of the beach.

Trees behind provide natural shade and there are the usual sunbeds and water sports you expect on a developed beach.

Kaminaki

A delightful and romantic bay of single and sand pebbles greets visitors to KAMINAKI. The stone beach is surrounded by olive groves and is well sheltered from wind in an idyllic setting.

Unfortunately it's only a short coastal walk to the Nissaki Beach Hotel, so the beach tends to get busy later in the day.

There are sun beds for hire and a single shower. For toilets there is a taverna on the beach with another on the cliffs above and for shopping a single mini market.

It's a steep drive down to the beach and there is limited parking. This is still the place to chill out and relax.

Agni

AGNI bay is found at the bottom of a very steep and twisting lane from the main coast road. It's a small bay of pebbles with the odd patch of sand with three tavernas that open in the summer with views across to Albania.

Jetties have been built to accommodate the boats that pull in here. The beach shelves deeply into the sea and there are some sharp underwater rocks making it unsuitable for children,

Apart from the tavernas, which offer free sun beds for customers, there are no facilities. It's a beautiful and peaceful setting though and a step back in time for those seeking a more relaxed Greece

Kalami

The exquisitely beautiful bay at KALAMI has a fairly long beach of white shingle littered with sun beds and with showers and toilets.

The stones are sharp, so footwear is advisable, but the sheltered bay is safe for snorkeling. The resort has strong romantic and literary connection through the Durrells - Lawrence and Gerald who had a lovely home, the White House, here.

Unfortunately Kalami also now home to one of the biggest self-catering compounds on Corfu. The complex sprawls up the hillside, though the owners have planted enough wisteria to hide most of it.

The coast of Albania sits 2km offshore and the seas get choppy in the channel should you hire a boat, not to mention the wake from dozens of passing cruise boats.

There are three mini markets and a couple of tourist shops in the village and some good tavernas. On the headland near Kouloura there are a couple of sheltered coves with flat rocks but you need a boat to get to them.

Kouloura

Around the headland from Kalami is the pretty fishing village of KOULOURA. Not much of a beach, just a narrow strip of sand and shingle under the cliffs opposite the harbour.

But it enjoys a beautiful setting that oozes peace and tranquility. Rocky coves offer snorkeling and sunbathing.

Much visited by boats the sea can get dirty with fuel in the summer and sea urchins are a problem on the rocks. No boat hire, no watersports, no bars, no clubs, one taverna and the nearest shop is a 20min walk to Kalami - heaven on earth.

Kerasia

The long 300m sweep of shingle at KERASIA is in a beautiful spot and ideal for those wishing to escape the crowds.

Surrounded by olive and pine the beach is flat and water shallow, though it dips sharply after a few metres.

There is a single beach taverna and a small shop on the beach but not much else, although sun beds are available to hire and there is plenty of parking.

Prince Charles apparently is an irregular visitor with the Rothschilds, who have a large estate nearby.

Agios Stefanos (east)

AGIOS STEFANOS is a lovely, isolated and shady cove with a small, but attractive, pebble beach, not to be confused with the resort of the same name on the north west coast.

There are four tavernas on the beach and a couple more in the village where there is also a mini market and a few half-decent gift shops (we are more upmarket now).

Agios Stefanos is a favourite target with day tripping boats and tends to get very busy as the day wears on. Apartments here are mostly upmarket and this is reflected in the local prices which are high even for Corfu.

There are sun beds on the beach but no facilities so it's a case of spending a few euro in the tavernas if you want to use the toilets. The waters are not shallow and the shingle drops very steeply into the sea, so it's not recommended for children.

The sea also suffers from gobs of washed up seaweed and sea urchins on the rocks. The narrow, winding road down to the beach is steep and difficult, not least because you will repeatedly want to stop to take photos.

Avlaki

The long splendid bay at AVLAKI tends to get missed by most visitors probably thanks to its better known neighbour Kassiopi and not particularly well signposted roads.

It's very popular with weekending Greeks and it's not hard to see why. The narrow 800m-long beach is mostly shingle but there are boardwalks and sun beds and the sea is shallow, though only for a few metres then drops off sharply.

It's very quiet, but more lively resorts are only a short walk and there are boat trips to Kerkyra.

There are no watersports as such but there are canoes for hire and a sailing school in the village which has a couple of tavernas, a single bar and no shops - the nearest is at Kassiopi.

Unfortunately the building of some pretentious villas has blighted the countryside, the architects deciding they required the re-siting of huge amounts of soil and stone.

A couple of small coves lie beyond the headlands along footpaths at either end of the beach but they are just narrow and rocky strips of shingle.

Kassiopi

I had KASSIOPI down as a haunt for headbangers and got shot out of the water by regular visitors who swear it is just an attractive seaside village.

The small town square is however dominated by big-screen TVs, disco bars do thump until dawn and karaoke bars will offer free shots for the get-drunk-quick teenagers - though it is all done on a smallish scale and is nowhere near as dreadful as lumpen resorts like Kavos.

There's still room for more traditional tavernas and quiet bars and regular visitors do emphasize the relaxed friendliness of the locals, although that is something you should experience just about anywhere in the Greek islands.

Kassiopi has a very pretty waterfront that is a favourite with photographers, but much of the village is thick with shops selling the usual tourist tat. There are two large mini markets and a couple of smaller ones.

Four nearby beaches can be reached by footpaths around the headland but none are particularly good. The main beach is pebble and has showers and toilets.

The others have no facilities and sea urchins can infest the rocks so it's probably best to steer clear without plastic footwear.

There is a pleasant taverna on the headland with a decent menu. Better beaches can be found to the south at Avlaki and Koyevinas - about 20min drive.

Boats trips leave from the harbour daily for Kerkyra and other beaches along the coast. The ruins of a castle overlook the harbour but there is not much to see as it was dismantled by the Venetians in the 14th century, though there have been some recent attempts at restoration.

Kassiopi visitor reviews

Agios Spiridon

A peaceful tiny bay until an 850-bed hotel complex sprang up behind it. Now AGIOS SPIRIDON looks to be overdeveloped as the big tour operators get a tighter grip.

A sandy beach is set in a smallish bay with rocks each side and there is another longer and better beach about 500m to the west.

On both beaches there are sun beds, showers, toilets and changing facilities. On the smaller beach there are also great gobs of seaweed that are cleared now and then by a JCB.

The water is shallow on both beaches and fine for children, with rock pools to add interest. Plenty of fag ends too since that hotel turned up.

The village has a couple of mini markets and a tourist shop and three tavernas - all recommended. A beach cantina opens in the summer.

This part of the coast is a nature reserve and walkers will find plenty to admire. There are wild flowers in the spring and a lagoon behind the resort that is home to the showy sea daffodil.

Don't pick the daffodils. They are getting very rare and this is one of the few habitats left to them in Greece.

Acharavi

The resort at ACHARAVI has all the immediate appeal of an M6 truck stop but appearances are deceptive.

The actual village is tucked away from the main road and comprises a quiet crescent of traditional tavernas and cafes with a 3km straight and long pebble and sand called Almiros beach.

Doughnut and ice cream sellers frequent the sands but are not too intrusive. Sun loungers are cheap and plentiful. The main part of the beach is pebbles but walk about 500m in any direction to find the best of the sand and a nudist area in the Kassiopi direction.

The beach overall runs to 3km and gently shelves into the sea but there can be stones underfoot so it's wise to have footwear. The water is shallow but waves can get a little choppy in the afternoon breeze.

The main beach is a clear favourite with families and couples and a great relief from the dishevelled mess that flanks the main highway though, as the main town in the region the resort does offer doctors, banks, post offices, mini markets etc.

There are good restaurants here and shops selling olivewood carvings. In the hills behind the village walkers can get on the Corfu Trail and other excellent walking paths leading up Mt Pantokrator.

There are the remains of Roman baths nearby and a Doric temple at Roda along the coast. A good water park (Hydropolis) is 10 minutes walk from the village and most hotels offer free use of the pool if you use the bar.

Acharavi visitor reviews

Roda

It's a three hour crawl from the airport along twisting and badly maintained roads so expect to feel exhausted when you arrive.

RODA or RHODA is a small, pretty, but charmless village with a large number of bars, restaurants and small shops.

Forget any Greek flavour too - this is English seaside town with karaoke and bingo nights in the scores of British theme pubs, many run by ex-pats.

The drab uniformity can make a long stay here tedious. A noise restriction after midnight does something to mitigate the music throb and infernal karaoke. Beware apartments sited on the main Sidari road as this is busy and noisy for 24 hours-a-day.

Access to the beach is down some steps from the main road where there is limited parking. It is sandy for the most part with some pebbles and gets better at the western end.

The sea is shallow and sandy underfoot so it's safe for children and non-swimmers and there are plenty of watersports.

The resort has been making efforts to improve itself of late with benches along the seafront, some palm tree planting and daily beach cleaning though there is little to be done about the endless fag ends in the sand.

The excellent cheap and air conditioned bus service is worth using and there's a bus stop by the beach. The place is plagued with stray dogs and feral cats but they are not a nuisance if you ignore them.

Roda visitor reviews

Sidari

The big guns of the British package firms have been trained on SIDARI for some years. What beauty it once had, and this was clearly substantial, has long been blown out of the water.

The once pretty village square is now lost in a hectic maze of happy hour bars, grubby pubs and trinket shops - we are firmly in the cheap and tacky end of the market here.

There are three beaches. The first near the old fishing harbour in the east and tends to collect seaweed between the conspicuous outlet pipes.

The central one is a long sweeping bay of grey sand with sun beds and a vast array of watersports, even an occasional bouncy castle. Avoid the stream of green soup that cuts through the middle of it.

To the west is the Canal d'Amour area, where sandstone cliffs have been eroded into spectacular formations and small sandy coves. They are very attractive but can get very overcrowded in high summer.

Visitors report that the canal area can also suffer from smelly drains, but the beach area does have a blue flag for cleanliness.

Watch out for the dangerous paths along the cliffs. They have been known to collapse, so it's not a place to let the children wander.

The resort's main road is narrow and busy. The restaurants and bars that fringe it offer a diet of bingo, TV football and pie and chips - about as Greek as Blackpool.

It's cheap and cheerful if you like a home from home holiday thing and there are so many Brits here can be hard to believe you are abroad.

The nights are enlivened with karaoke. The pestering bar touts can be a nuisance but will leave you alone if you show no interest.

Stray dogs and cats are the usual problem, despite an annual winter cull. The area is also notorious for mosquitoes so don't forget the insect spray.

Sidari visitor reviews

Peralouthes

If Sidari visitors feel the need to get away from the British abroad they need look no further than PEROULATHES, a handsome hill village with traditional tavernas and cafes providing access to very quiet beaches and some lovely walks.

The main beach is hardly that - just a narrow strip of sand below vertical cliffs that floods with waves at each passing boat and you can only get to it with a perilous descent down scores of winding cement steps.

The taverna above the beach offers stunning sunset views and lends the place its alternative name of Sunset Beach

Agios Stefanos (San Stefanos)

The low-key resort of AGIOS STEFANOS also known as SAN STEFANOS to distinguish it from the village of the same name on the north east coast.

Gentle hills roll down to a 500m long, flat and deep sandy beach that is fairly quiet even in the high season.

The shallow water and gently sloping sands make this a particular favourite with families and there are sun beds, showers and toilets.

A boardwalk runs the length of the back of the beach which at 70m deep is big by Corfu standards. The flat expanse and low cliffs give the resort a very English feel.

There are now some watersports and a child play area. Tucked away from the main traffic routes and only approached along narrow lanes the resort tends to be quieter than most.

It has some good tavernas and small family hotels and apartments as well as the usual selection of shops and bars. There is some outstanding scenery for walkers to enjoy in this part of the island.

Arilas

Walks along the headland from Agios Stefanos to nearby ARILAS or ARILLAS are popular with the fine views and splendid sunsets.

The beach at Arilas is a little busier than its neighbour, though not as long at 250m nor as deep at just 15m.

But it is flat and very sandy with shallow waters, so it's great for families and backed by low rolling hills except at the southern end where cliffs loom behind and you can get away from what crowds there may be.

The islet of Gravia just offshore and reachable if you are a decent enough swimmer. There are sun beds, watersports, boats for hire and a water taxi to other resorts along the coast.

In the resort itself there is a wide selection of mini markets - I counted seven, there may be more - and a few shops selling tourist souvenirs.

Agios Georgios (north)

AGIOS GEORGIOS or GIORGIOS is a newish sprawling resort set at the mouth of a wide wooded valley. Don't confuse it with Agios Giorgos to the south.

Many regard the long and gently sloping beach here as one of the best in Corfu and it is a popular destination for young families.

It's very long (1,400m) and deep too (140m). The northern and middle parts are the most popular (nudist right at the northern end), with water sports the high season. The southern bit is narrower and less crowded but seaweed tends to pile up there.

Most of it is clean golden sand and clear shallow water, though seas around here do tend to become a bit choppy. A river runs through the main resort where there are the usual supermarkets, tavernas, bars and car hire.

There also mountain bikes to be had, an internet cafe at the Katoi Bar and even a small bowling alley.

But don't expect much 'old Greek' atmosphere. This is more a British bucket and spade holiday resort - only with sun.

The village of AFIONAS on the headland has great views over the bay and the 13th century Venetian fortress of Angelkastro is a 30 minute car ride away.

The resort's central position also makes this an excellent base for exploring the island.

Paleokastritsa

PALEOKASTRITSA is a firm favourite with British holidaymakers. Surrounded by lush and beautiful countryside, it is one of the most scenic resorts on the island.

But it is very hilly as well and the lack of footpaths can make walking at night quite dangerous and scary. Night noise can also be a problem as motorbikes scream up the hills.

The resort is spread over three large bays and although there are plenty of visitors the bays are big enough to contain just about everyone without it feeling too busy, though visiting day-trippers do add substantially to the numbers.

The holiday focus is on the main beach, a relatively narrow horseshoe crescent of shingle backed by a large hotel complex and a large car park.

The water is deep and unsuitable for unaccompanied children but there are plenty of sun beds, showers and toilets. Boats leave regularly for reasonably priced trips to nearby caves, grottos and small beaches.

There are more than a dozen places that are visited regularly and there are taxi boats to drop you off at the beach of your choice. The usual tourist watersports are also on offer including scuba diving.

The other two bays and smaller but sandier, one to the north and another sandy strip around the headland serviced by boat taxis. The overspill from the main beach and the daily influx of trippers ensure they are rarely peaceful.

There is a handful of tavernas in the resort but all are notoriously expensive and uniformly mediocre, so it's not great for a family holiday.

There are a few tame music bars on the edge of the resort. Around the headland is an exclusive marina with some seriously show-off boats to admire.

Overlooking the bay is a 13th century monastery that is such a favourite with coach parties traffic lights have been installed on the access road.

The visiting traffic spoils the monastic atmosphere. The monastery itself has some impressive icons, a carved wooden ceiling and a bizarre sea monster.

The most impressive attraction though is the paved gardens with stunning sea views, though you might not be so impressed at being implored by money-minded monks to buy a candle as you enter.

There are spectacular views to be had in a ride up to Lakones and the villages beyond as well as some notable roadside tavernas to visit on the way.

Liapades

LIAPADES or LIAPATHES is a picturesque resort set in a sheltered bay, though sadly dominated by a large hotel complex.

Mercifully it is not a high rise one but it does rather spoil the views. The beach is mostly soft sand with a few stones and waters very shallow, ideal for children.

Large rocks each side of the bay add interest and there is parking close to the beach. Visitors report that wasps are a problem, no doubt nesting in the nearby pines.

The village is about 1 km inland from the beach, but still worth a visit. It's a typical Greek village with narrow streets and some good tavernas.

Ermones

Busy ERMONES has been rather overrun by surrounding hotel complexes. It's only a small 300m cove surrounded by very steep hills but these are littered with four hotels and dozens of ugly apartment blocks.

German tour operators dominate and the Ermones Beach Hotel even boasts a small funicular railway to ferry guests down the almost vertical cliffs.

The beach is sand and shingle, clean but with a smelly stream running through the middle of it. It shelves gently, so safe for children, and there are rocks to explore at each end.

There are sun beds, toilets and showers on the beach and parking above with some very steep steps to negotiate. There is wind surfing and boat hire. The beach has three tavernas with three more above so the crowds are well fed.

After dark, the place thumps to the hotel discos but there is no other entertainment. For shopping there is just one mini market and that's it.

OK if your choice is an all-inclusive package deal but otherwise not many good reasons to visit.

Myrtiotissa

Lawrence Durrel once described the tiny sands at MYRTIOTISSA as “perhaps the loveliest beach in the world” which is going it a bit, especially today.

Relatively difficult to reach with a scramble down the cliff face from the nearby village at Vatos, the narrow but pretty stretch of sand is pocked with mighty boulders and overlooked by scrub covered cliffs.

Once a well kept secret the beach is now regularly invaded by day-trip boats and it can get seriously crowded in the high summer.

But the beach still has great charm, despite the crowds, and it is best enjoyed at the end of the day when the boat trippers have left.

It is still quiet enough to be a favourite haunt of nudists, though there are fewer of these each year as the beach grows in popularity. The beach cantina is noted for its excellent sandwich snacks.

Glyfada

GLYFADA has a huge 1km beach of pure golden sand that shelves gently into the sea, very attractive and a favourite with families.

There are the usual sun beds and watersports. This being one of the longest, sandiest and cleanest beaches on the island and hugely popular, especially with Italians, it can get very crowded in high season.

It is also somewhat overwhelmed by the Louis Grand Hotel which takes up a mammoth portion of the beach. There is a small car park near which soon reaches capacity and finding a place to park can be a pain later in the day.

There are facilities like showers and toilets and a beach taverna. All the usual watersports that you expect on a big popular beach are on offer.

On the headland there is a large rock formation, about 40ft at its highest point, that is a popular spot for show-off diving displays by the young Italian bucks.

Pelekas

The attractive hilltop village of PELEKAS sits on the west coast south of Glyfada and almost opposite Kerkyra, around 15km from the capital.

The beach lies below the village - about 10mins walk - and is a wide crescent of sand with sun beds, showers and toilets.

There are several beachfront tavernas, boat rental and a variety of watersports. Once a favourite haunt of backpackers it has now given way to more conventional tourism, though it is still less crowded than neighbouring Glyfada.

The small fishing harbour to the south gives added interest and the small beach of YALISKARI with amazing rock formations is just around the headland.

The town above still has an authentic Greek character and the locals are noted for hospitality. It is also noted for its sunsets and here sits the Kaiser's Throne, a lookout tower on an outcrop of rock that was a favourite spot for Kaiser Willhelm II.

Agios Gordios

There is a relatively small resort at AGIOS GORDIOS that's noted for its 600m long sandy beach and relaxed atmosphere.

The soft sand and shallow water is ideal for families with children, though there are a few rocks in the central area which can attract mounds of seaweed and scraps of litter. There are no watersports.

Empty coves can be found beyond the sands to north and south, with interesting beach rocks at the southern end and the Ortholithi, the trademark standing rock in the sea.

Expect nudity in the more isolated coves. The main beach can get quite busy and there are with watersports available.

The resort itself is a single road leading inland from the beach to the main road with a selection of tavernas, shops and mini markets strung along it as it meanders steeply up the hill.

Parking can be a problem as the narrow road is a dead end at the beach with little room for turning. There are more tavernas to be found along the sea front.

Though some are disappointingly English, there are several more traditional Greek eateries. Prices tend to be high in such an out-of-the-way resort.

Most nightlife is at the north end of the resort, though this amounts to little more than a few music bars. The mini markets provide basic supplies and there is a doctor here and now an ATM.

There is a bus to Corfu Town that runs five time a day in the summer season and is reliable for a day out in the town.

Paramona

About 6km south of Agios Giordios the beautiful beach of PARAMONA sits below the village at AGIOS MATTHAIOS.

It is only a small (200m) and narrow (10m) strip of sand but it's in an idyllic setting. It has developed as a small resort in recent years with hotels and apartments, some and some beach tavernas. There is parking on the road and showers on the beach.

There are more remote beaches further south at PRASOUDI and SKIDI but they require a 30min walk through olive groves to get to them, though the long walk can be broken by a visit to the fort at Gardiki.

Prasoudi has become particularly popular with fine golden sand and a couple of tavernas on the beach, noteworthy for their seafood.

Standing rocks offshore add interest and there is plenty of parking at the taverna, although it's a steep scramble down to the sands. There are no buses here.

Lake Korission

South of Paramona you leave the hills behind and reach wide open spaces at the ruined Byzantine fortress of GARDIKI or GARDHIKI which overlooks the salt water lagoon at LIMNI KORISSA or KORIOSSION.

The lagoon is now a nature reserve and home to turtles, lizards and migrating birds. Wide, soft sands appear to run for miles with the lake and sea separated by a narrow strip of dunes and a rough road.

The lake was created by the Venetians who flooded the marshy plain behind by dredging a route to the sea at the northern tip, presumably in order to harvest the salt, which was a much sought after commodity in Venetian times.

Today, this is a wild and unspoiled area with no beach facilities and its exposed nature can leave you battered by wind and whistling sand.

It has few visitors although a mobile cantina doe spring up in the summer to serve basics near the Gardiki end of the beach.

Agios Georgios

The natural wild disappears at AGIOS GEORGIOS (not to be confused with its more popular namesake to the north or with the similar sounding Agios Gordios) to be replaced with wilder commercial offerings of late night drinking, clubbing and karaoke.

Paragliding and jet skis are the order of the day here at this long and straggling resort that has become very popular with Brits. Who else could delight in such a resort?

It's not quite as nightmarish as Kavos, only 20 mins away, appealing more to the middle aged than muddle brained teens.

The northern end of the long, long, long sands is known as ISSOS beach overseen by a massive hotel complex just to the south of the salt lake.

To the south are the long sands of GOLDEN BEACH which merges with a string of sandy stretches variously known as MALTAS, MARATHIAS and SANTA BARBARA.

Agios Georgios itself has the usual popular tourist facilities, loads of tavernas and bars, karaoke, wide screen TVs, beach sports, doughnut sellers, souvenir stands and plenty of day trips and excursions on offer from the local travel agents.

A walk to the inland village ARGIRADES will reward with astonishing views, lovely cafes and a taste of traditional village life. It's about 3km from the resort and offers extra amenities such as petrol station and pharmacy.

Kavos

The first thing to hit you on arrival in KAVOS will probably be the rank smell of the rotting black seaweed that is regularly washed up on the nasty beach.

It's augmented by the stench of broken drains, foul toilets and a main street permanently lined within stale vomit.

Desperately dire and unrivalled for ugliness, Kavos is a fit place for the mentally challenged 18-30 year olds that it attracts by the thousand.

Gangs of youths looking for a "larf" give the place the hostile air of an English soccer town on match day.

Expect shops selling lewd T-shirts, video bars named after TV sitcoms and lager swilling bozos trying to match IQs against sandal sizes. Men usually outnumber women about 10-1 so boys are far more likely to get tanked up than chatted up.

The resort is a single busy street - no pavement - with scores of music bars (80 at the last count), dance clubs and karaoke cafes that go mental from 11.30pm to sunrise.

Club and bar touts are the usual problem - they pester passers by constantly, don't take no for an answer and some will forcibly drag you in if they think they can get away with it.

Take plenty of money - drinks are not cheap and usually watered down. It is rumoured that the cheaper drinks and 'free shots' are mixed with meths to cut costs.

Food is more reasonably priced, but it's almost exclusively pizzas, burgers, kebabs and chips.

Thieving is common and walking at night is dangerous on the narrow road as half-wit boys outgun each other on their quad bikes.

It all makes for a very exciting atmosphere on the main narrow drag as those youngsters still standing spill out of the bars to dance in the street.

The beach at Kavos is notoriously is poor, covered in rotting seaweed, fag ends, beer cans and condoms. It's often used as a nighttime toilet by drunken clubbers. The water is oily - hardly surprising as two sewage pipes run into it.

Boat trips are a good way to escape the place - those to Parga, Paxos and Blue Lagoon are good. Don't even think about going out-of-season - the place shuts like a clam when the 18-30s leave.

Lefkimi

The lovely village at LEFKIMI is well off the beaten track and a step back in time. Donkeys are still used as transport and you may even spot the odd Greek in traditional costume.

The village has two striking churches, Agios Theodoros is in the main square and the distinctive orange dome of Agios Arsenos can be seen for miles. There are some ancient Venetian salt pans here, currently being restored.

The village has a long harbour serviced by a river and boat trips visit here regularly. There are small beaches and fishing harbours at nearby PETRITI and BOUKARI.

Moraitika and Messonghi

The resort at MORAITIKA has now virtually merged with neighbouring MESSONGHI thanks to a strip of music bars, car rental outfits and souvenir shops.

Moraitika is north of the harbour, about 30km south of Corfu Town. The shingle and sand beach is always busy - no doubt helped by the massive 2,000-bed Messonghi Beach Hotel.

The beach has the usual facilities associated with a popular hotel centre. There are plenty of sunbeds and the usual water sports.

For a change, visitors can head for ANO MORAITIKA up one of the steep lanes where you can find an unspoiled village of tiny whitewashed houses covered in flowers, with excellent tavernas and great views.

The resort at MESSONGHI or MESONGI was once a quiet backwater village but it is now blended in with its neighbour, though this is still the more peaceful end of the resort.

All the facilities are concentrated on the beach area, hotels, tavernas, bars and gift shop. It's off the main road so it tends to be quieter.

The beach is long and sandy with more shingle and pebble than its neighbour. There are changing rooms and showers and no end of beachside tavernas.

There is one large mini market in the centre of the village and several small shops. Visits to the traditional hillside village of KHLOMOS are popular.

Agios Ionassis

Agios Ioannis is a small village that sits on the east coast about half way between Messonghi and Benitses. This is one of the most attractive areas of the island and is fast being developed as a tourist resort with plenty of amenities.

The beach is small, mostly shingle with a quay at the southern end. Shallow waters make it suitable for families with children.

There is a small parade of tavernas and bars with some shops, a minimarket and a wide range of hotels built along the back of the beach and along the main road, which is far enough from the shoreline not to be a nuisance.

Watersports are available and there is a bus service to Moratika and Benitses for a change of scenery. Agios Ioannis is 5 km away from Benitses and about 18km from the Kerkyra and the airport.

Benitses

BENITSES or BENITSAS, once the favourite haunt of the downmarket dimwit, is slowly reverting to a more grown-up way of life.

The resort is about 1km along, strung along the east coast about 7km south of Corfu Town. The southern part of town still clings precariously to the past with a string of brash music bars and tasteless tavernas.

But the old town has miraculously recovered some of its pre-60s charm with whitewashed houses fairly drowning in cascading flowers.

Some say too much damage has been done for it ever to recover but the locals are doing their best and for the most part seem to be succeeding.

The busy main road clings to the waterfront and the beaches are not the best on Corfu - you might just as well sunbathe on the cement. They are pebble and shingle with a very steep drop into the sea. There are the usual sun beds and water sports.

The resort seems over endowed with tourist souvenir shops and you can hardly walk anywhere without passing a taverna or bar.

Many of the tavernas at the harbour end have improved so much they are now even frequented by local Greeks who can be relied upon to know a good restaurant when they find one.

Benitses makes a good choice for those looking for more lively nightlife and would like to spend the day exploring the more remote beaches in the south of the island.

Paxos and Parga

A boat trip to Paxos and Parga is highly recommended. It takes 2-3 hours to get to Parga and then a further 90mins to get to Paxos. If you are staying on the north coast add a coach trip to Corfu Town of 45mins. Parga is a beautiful little town of coloured houses with big sandy beach and clear water. For Paxos see my report.

Boat trips leave Sidari and Roda daily for local islets such as Erikousa in the summer. They also leave from the port of Agios Stephanos Monday to Thursday. There are also trips from Corfu Town though these take rather longer. Trips can be arranged through San Stefano Travel. Captain Aris does a beach barbecue - see Corfu Castaway.

Corfu Walking Trail

Corfu's long-distance footpath is said to meet all the expectations of the first hikers from the UK. Around 220 km long it round the length of Corfu island from the southerly white cliffs of Arkoudillas to Cape Agia Ekaterini in the north. Paths have been cleared and way-marked with yellow signs. There are 11 daily walks and terrain varies, from rough tracks to cobbled mule paths, minor roads and beaches.

The best months to follow the trail are from February to June and from September to November. Details of the trail can be found at www.corfutrail.org. The trail is marketed in the UK by hiking specialist tour operator Walks Worldwide.